WESTERN CHRISTIAN ADVOCATE

October 1, 1873

BY REV. A. STRITMATTER, Missionary to China

After being shut out three weeks from all intercourse with the civilized world, and with nothing to gaze at but sea and sky, the sight of land anywhere, no matter how bleak and barren, would be cheering. Much more so was the sight of the beautiful city of Yokohama and the green hills of Japan, as, on the morning of June 30th, the Quang-se came to anchor in the smooth, green waters of the harbor. Then, for the first time in twenty-four days, we realized what a luxury it was to stand on something that was at rest. And when we went on shore, how firm and still and solid the earth seemed!

There are many things of interest to be seen in Yokohama, to a foreigner visiting Japan for the first time. The natives themselves are a curiosity. The men are all below the medium size of the Caucasian race, and the women are mere girls in stature. The lower classes cover a comparatively small portion of the body during the warm season. Their shoes are mostly wooden sandals, strapped on the feet, and raised three or four inches above the ground, by two upright little pieces of board, firmly fastened underneath. In rainy weather these serve admirably well to keep the feet out of the mud; but when the streets are dry and hard, the continual clattering of passers-by is rather annoying. The streets are narrow, and not very straight, but, in general, very neat and clean. The sidewalks are from one to four feet wide, and are not much used.

There are some pleasant modes of conveyance. The most noted is the "jyn-rik-sha." This can be most fitly described by saying that it is an overgrown baby-carriage, just large enough to seat a grown person comfortably. Some are finished off very handsomely, with a cushioned seat, and a cover to be drawn over the head at will, as a protection from sun or rain. They are furnished with a yoke, or shafts, and are drawn by natives, who earn their living in this way. For a few cents they will take one to any part of the city in a surprisingly short time. It is wonderful to see how much a bareheaded, barebacked Japanese can endure under a broiling sun, which is almost intolerable to a foreigner protected by a pith-hat, and an umbrella. The jyn-rik-sha is an institution of quite recent date. The literal meaning of the word is, "man's strength carriage," and in Yeddo they are numbered by the thousand.

Besides the jyn-rik-sha, there are elegant little carriages drawn by fat, round, sleek little ponies. There are numerous "livery stables," where any of these modes of conveyance can be had. In loaning either a horse or a carriage, the stable-keeper sends along a servant, whose duty it is to run before for the purpose of watching the speed, of shouting to people to get out of the way, and at halting-places, of taking care of the animal. These runners wear nothing on either their head or feet; and their swiftness, muscular strength, and power of endurance, seldom allow them to be outstripped by the horse.

Missionaries are obtaining quite a hold in Yokohama. The Presbyterians and Dutch Reformed have occupied the place for some years, and a force of two men and

their families, sent out by the Wesleyans of Canada, have recently begun operations in this new and inviting field. The Japanese manifest great respect for foreigners, and many of them are not indifferent to the Christian religion. Rev. Mr. Ballagh, a missionary of the Dutch Reformed Church, has a society of more than fifty native converts. It was organized March 10, 1872, and at the beginning numbered only eleven. We witnessed the baptism of three adults on Sabbath afternoon, who were recent accessions to the society.

Earthquakes are frequent in Japan. On Wednesday evening, July 2d, a prayer-meeting, for the benefit of the English in an around Yokohama, was held at the house of Mrs. Prime, an intelligent and devoted Christian lady. Much of the time was taken up in conversing freely on religious experience. Quite a number of soldiers were present, from a British man-of-war lying in the harbor. They manifested a deep interest in the exercises, taking a prominent part in the conversation by telling, in an earnest feeling manner, what God had done for them. About nine o'clock, one of them was fervently leading us in prayer, when I felt the floor under my knees begin to quiver. I had never before experienced a "shock," but knew instantly what it was, and losing all thoughts of devotion, watched anxiously the result. The floor continued to tremble, and the quivering sensation increased, until the house began literally to rock to and fro! Those brave soldiers jumped from their knees, and skedaddled in confusion through the door, convinced that the safest side of the house was the outside. The man who led in prayer abruptly closed his petitions, and followed the example of his comrades. It was a rather ludicrous termination to a really solemn and interesting prayer-meeting. The shock was an unusually heavy one, but no damage was done; and when we returned to our hotel we found the natives passing through the streets, or attending to their stores, as unconcernedly as if nothing strange had happened.