Heart of the Celestial Kingdom, Under the Benignant

Protection of the Son of Heaven,

Center of the Universe,

etc., etc., (all of which means,) Kiukiang, China,

Sabbath Evening, Aug. 3d, 1873

My Dear Sister Rose, Antipode,

You will doubtless be taking exceptions to the pompous array of phrases which form the caption of this letter, but if, when you are in Rome, you must do as Rome does, why not in China also? Besides you must remember that I, having come half way round the world, am on the top side now and you underneath; and it is not proper for those who have been brought into a state of humiliation to be dictating to their superiors. Never before have I felt my dignity so much as at present. Here I take my stand on the classic banks of the mighty Yangtse-kiang, and swinging my hat in the breeze of a Celestial sky, shout in stentorian tones across the Eastern Sea, and Pacific Pond, "Gloria in Excelsis! Sic Semper Tyrannis! Half the world is under my feet! Io Triumphe! Nikn Nikn!" And I imagine I feel the poor Americans crawling in helpless indignation underneath me, like so many ants under the heel of a mastodon; and --.

But this is a great way for a missionary to begin his first letter from a heathen land, isn't it? especially on a Sunday evening, and right after attending a prayer meeting, too? Well, I don't usually write letters on Sunday; but I had before me the alternative of lying down on a (hot) bed and rolling listlessly about for two hours, or of having a chat with you, just as, if I were at home, I would have no scruple of doing. And surely there is no more harm in communicating by pen than by mouth? But I did not intend to begin in that kind of style, as you can see by the abrupt termination.

Well, let that pass. You want to know ever so many things, and out of an endless assortment I have only a few to tell you. I came up to Kiukiang (450 miles from Shanghai) on a magnificent steamboat, which bore me through the water almost as lightly as a feather, reaching this place at 11 o'clock, Friday night, July 25th. Bro. V. C. Hart was waiting for me, and took charge of me at once. All my baggage, clothes, books, etc., came through perfectly safe, and as they were with me all the time from San Francisco, I lost no time in getting settled down.

And I did get settled down, to perfection. Did you know I used to think missionaries had to deprive themselves of all the comforts of life, etc., when they went to a heathen land? Ah! what a blunder. I find they live as well as other people, and, if they want to, can surround themselves with as many comforts as any body else. For my part, I never was so comfortably situated in my life as I am now. I have three rooms, each one furnished with all needful apparatus, but my study is a model of neatness, comfort, and convenience. I have a writing desk far superior to any I ever saw in America; a round center table, covered with books, in the center of which I keep

Webster's Dictionary, surmounted by the album I found in Portsmouth O., a wardrobe and bookcase combined; two kerosene lamps, one with a reflector, and the other (by the light of which I am now writing), with a translucent porcelain shade; an extra table or desk; chairs, etc., all that I need, except a rocking-chair, and that I have ordered made. In fact, there is nothing wanting to complete the sum total of perfect happiness in my case but -- hem! -- a wife; and she -- but never mind. ("She" must be somewhere near at hand, for the Publishers of the Heathen Woman's Friend are sending a copy here to "Mrs. Rev. A. Str. etc.")

Next as to the situation of Kiukiang generally. It occupies, as I stated at the beginning, the center of the universe (in a Celestial sense), and on the north is bounded by the Yangtsekiang. This tremendous river rolls its mighty flood right past our door. Its waters come from the west, and every evening I can stand on the corner of the verandah and witness a sunset such as you never dreamed of in America. On the opposite side, at a distance of 9 or 10 miles, but seemingly no farther off than 1 or 2, a high range of mountains towers above the fleecy clouds. (This is literally true, if it is poetry). They are green with grass and shrubbery, and in the daytime, when the clouds cast a shadow over them, they look just like a black thunder storm coming up. "Lovely view, is it?" Bosh! It takes a stronger pen than mine to do justice to it, so I'll let it alone.

And now as to the Chinese themselves. They are a peculiar sort of people (whatever that may mean). The men all shave their heads, except that they leave a round place on the back for the hair to grow which they twist into queues. The queues hang down when they are not at work, or if they are, are twirled around the head like a black-snake round a stump. The women have round, stunted feet, presenting about the same appearance as if they were cut off at the ankle; and their gait is painfully awkward, as if they were supported by stilts. The men wear loose breeches, the seats of which hang down to the calves of the legs; and so do the women, too. (I mean the women wear breeches, not "hang down, etc."). The hair of the latter is done up into a steeple back of the head, and fastened with a pin. They are all a good-humored, jolly set of people, and show great respect for foreigners, however they really feel towards them. And you can get them for you at 10 cts. a day, and it is worth another 10 cts. to see the grin of delight which overspreads their faces when you put the silver into their hand.

Besides Bro. Hart, there are the Misses Howe and Hoag here, as missionaries, and Bro. John Ing and his wife. The first three are earnest, energetic, and persevering, with their hearts in the work; the latter may be designated as nonentities. You would be surprised to find how often the Missionary Board is taken in in sending men and women to foreign lands. Since I came to China, one of the most forcible as well as disagreeable truths forced upon my mind is, that, as "they were not all Israel who were of Israel," so they are not all missionaries who are of the missionaries. If the church at home knew all that I know, I am afraid there would be a perceptible decrease in the amount of missionary contributions. Yet there are contingent evils attendant on every human plan of benevolence; and time and experience alone, combined with wisdom, economy, prudence, and sound judgment, can remedy those evils.

I have begun the study of the language, and have acquired the names of some forty odd characters. I am gratified to know that there are only thirty nine thousand nine hundred and sixty odd more for me to learn. There is no orthography in Chinese books, as there is a separate character for every word; and the characters take every variety of shape, from that of a straight line to a circle, and from a chicken track to a fish's spinal column.

The missionary work is moving on, and the hearts of the people are being reached. In the S. School here you would be delighted to see the wonderful eagerness with which little boys, six or seven years of age, with their puny pig-tails tied behind them, answer the Bible questions put to them, or the interest they take in listening to what is said to them.

I have written ever so many letters home and elsewhere, and am patiently waiting to receive an answer. I suppose that will be about November next. Talk about getting tired waiting for answered letters! Since leaving home I have not heard a single word from there; but no doubt by the time you receive this, more than one letter will be on its way. I wish, if you have the opportunity, you would send to me my chromo of "Red Riding Hood." A missionary needs pictures here as well as at home to make his rooms pleasant. It will cost something, however, and will need to be wrapped up with exceeding care in stout paper and put in a box. If it cannot be sent safely, or will cost more than $5, by no means think of sending it. But if you can get it to me, I will send you in return a box of Chinese curiosities. Did you get the "group" I sent you from San Francisco?

Address to Kiukiang, China, Care Pacific Mail Steamship Co. Give my regards to Bro. Wakefield (if he has not gone to Conference before you get this), and to all the friends on Blue Run, and particularly to Mollie Reiniger. Many things of interest I will write anon.

Your aff. bro.

1. Stritmatter

P.S. -- I forgot to answer that common place question, "Are you well?" I am well, hearty, robust, cheerful, strong, contented, happy, and grateful to God for it.

I enclose some Chinese characters.

(This last was added in a different color ink--RSJ)