The Writings of Andrew Stritmatter (1847-1880):
Missionary in China in the 1870's
On the Yang-tse-Kiang (WCA) - trip down the Yangtse to Wu Hu

WESTERN CHRISTIAN ADVOCATE

May 10, 1876

ON THE YANG-TSE-KIANG

BY REV. A. STRITMATTER

December 14th -- We spent the forenoon at Ten Chiao, which turned out after all to be quite a large place. Mr. Baller found the literary man, Yu, who seemed to be an inquirer, and brought him on the boat for a talk. He said that he had first heard the Gospel about three years ago, in the chapel at Ta Tung; and that "it had been on his mind ever since." He evinced a desire to become a Christian, if he was only taught more fully how; and Mr. Baller, after instructing him in the principal requirements of the Gospel, prayed with him and sent him away with a few books, calculated to assist him in finding the way of life. His case is a very encouraging one, and there seems to have been a providence in our meeting with him. May the Lord strengthen the good impressions which have evidently been made on his heart, and lead him into the full light of divine truth. We disposed of a large number of books again to-day among the people of Ten Chiao, who have shown us indeed a very kind and friendly spirit.

December 16th -- The only place we stopped at yesterday was a large village called Ti Kang. It lies along the bank of a little river, which is spanned in one place by an arched stone bridge. Chinamen excel in the art of building stone bridges, and this was a very superior piece of workmanship. As usual, we found the people very friendly. This morning we arrived at the town of Wu Hu, which is to be the terminus of our trip. It is a very important trading place, situated some two hundred and forty miles below Kiukiang, and sixty miles above Nanking. Before the Tai Ping -- "Great Peace (!)" -- rebellion, it was perhaps the busiest city along the river. The rebels destroyed it until it is said that not a house was left standing, or building of any kind, except a large and ancient pagoda, standing, like some old monumental pile, on the river bank, at the head of the main street. A large space of ground outside of the town is covered with ruins, but it is being rapidly built over. The China Island Mission have a chapel here, and the Roman Catholics have just succeeded, after considerable trouble, in securing a site. When we went on shore this morning I took with me a few tracts against opium, which, as soon as the people discovered I had them, sold as fast as I could hand them out. I visited Mr. Baller's chapel, which stands in the suburbs, and found his native assistant a fat, good-humored Chinaman, with his face strongly indented with the small-pox. Before he entered the Church he was a small mandarin. During the forenoon the people did not seem disposed to purchase books, but in the afternoon there was for a while a perfect rush for them. Never have I seen Chinese more friendly or good-natured, or more pleasant in their behavior toward me. They were greatly delighted to find that I could speak their language, and every word I said, was listened to with profound attention. What blessed opportunities for preaching the Gospel! An angel might envy the privilege, and his impassioned eloquence would not fall in vain on the ears of such a people. They were very curious, of course, to know where I came from, etc., and persisted frequently in setting me down for a Ningpo man, in spite of my protestations to the contrary. One of

the most common questions they would ask me was, "Are your clothes comfortable?" And they seemed extremely pleased when I told them yes. My name and age also were objects of polite inquiry. How unlike heathen many of these people seem to be, and how noble a character can be developed in them through the knowledge and acceptance of Christianity!

December 17th -- This morning we had a strong "west-north" wind, as the boatmen called it, and although we should have liked to stay at Wu Hu another day, we concluded we had better make use of the breeze and set out on our return. The anchor was taken up, and we sailed up the river nicely for about five miles, when the wind became dead ahead and prevented all further progress. So we anchored close by the left bank until 2 P.M., when seeing there was no prospect of the wind shifting, we crossed over to the mouth of a small creek on the other side, near which was a village. The creek was almost choked up with junks and small boats, so that we had great difficulty in getting up to the shore to anchor. And just after we entered, two or three big junks came in behind us, effectually blocking up all method of egress if we should be disinclined to remain in our pinched up situation. But we had not fastened up to the shore twenty minutes when the wind increased to a tremendous gale, which has lasted all afternoon and far into the night. We were very fortunate in securing a quiet and protected retreat from the tempest, and that too in the very nick of time, for it would have been decidedly unpleasant out on the river.

December 18th -- The gale which came on yesterday continued all day to-day, and it was bitter cold. Of course, we had to lie quietly by, and as to-morrow is Sunday we shall not get away until the day after. This afternoon Mr. Baller and I took a basketful of books and went on shore. We found a place on the village street which was partially protected from the furious gale, which otherwise would have blown both our books and voices away. A large crowd collected around us, to whom we talked and distributed books. All the books we had with us were disposed of before we returned to the boat. The people were very amiable.

Sunday, December 19th -- It was bitter cold this morning when we got up, but the gale had died away, and the sun by degrees diffused a more genial temperature. A large number of the boats lying in the little stream left us quite early, and the passage out was once more cleared. But toward noon the wind rose again, and boats coming up the river were driven in here for shelter. There seemed to be hundreds of these, and for two or three hours there was quite a lively scene. The stream is only a few yards wide, and both sides were lined with boats lying at anchor. There was only a narrow passage through the middle for new-comers, and into this they crowded, sometimes two abreast pulling, pushing, shouting, scolding, each one trying to be first. In a short time the stream was blocked up as much as it was yesterday. Mr. Baller walked back to Wu Hu in the morning, to spend the day in his chapel there.

December 20th -- The morning was bright and beautiful, and by sunrise we were out of the mouth of the little stream where we had lain since Friday, and following in the wake of the numerous sails which were already stretching up the river. As if Providence wished to bestow on us a special favor, the wind sprang up from a quarter directly opposite to that from which it had been blowing for three days. The river was as smooth as glass for a while, and the sailing was delightful. Our gallant little boat gradually passed every native craft which had got the start of us, although some of them had twice the quantity of sail. Gradually the breeze became strong enough to break up the placid surface of the river into billows, and we were borne rapidly up the stream. After being more than two weeks from Kiukiang, with no news or letters from friends, it was exhilarating to be wafted homeward once more. We reached Ti Kang, thirty miles above Wu Hu, early in the afternoon, and stopped and sold three hundred cash worth of books. Four New Testaments were in the number. The breeze still continuing in our favor, we kept on our way, and did not anchor until two hours after dark.